Composite Darning

Certainly, recently discovered darning samplers consisting of six or twelve separate, one darn only pieces and joined together by lace now form a group. It's a somewhat unusual group. 

The first one was worked by the Amsterdam girl Sofia Kip (1711-1783) in 1726 when she was 14 years old. This early and relatively simple example has four darns put together, one with a needle lace seam and two others with a plain seam. (See fig. 1)

Fig. 1 Amsterdam darning sampler by Sofia Kip, aged 14 years in 1726. Silk om cotton, 24 x 25 cm. (Coll Ex Antiques)

Techniques other than darning work itself were sometimes practiced on Dutch darning samplers. Occasionally, they are decorated with a border or floral pattern, sometimes with needle lace or whitework. The whole can look beautiful and showcase all the skills of the maker. Still, most Dutch darning samplers would stick to the practical work without too many frivolous additions.

The group that has now expanded and jumps about fifty years and begins with Nelliten No.. or Nelli ten No.. from 1774. Here we see six darning work joined together with bobbin lace, not needle lace. Nelli felt the need to extract her surname. She cannot be traced with certainty, despite her almost full name. (See fig. 2.)

Fig 2 Amsterdam darning sampler by Nelliten No..(?) 1774.. Silk on cotton. Size : 38 x 29 cm. (Coll. Ex Antiques)

Next come two samplers, again requiring some unpicking. The first is from 1788 by I v d M. Is the father A C v d M? (See fig. 3.) The next girl, Eeltje Toonen (probably Neeltje, the N has been removed!) worked her masterpiece in 1785 (See fig. 4), She did something special: not four or six darns, but a dozen. And to think that each darning is completely hemmed.

The work was done in various bindings and sometimes multiple bindings within a single darn. It is so very refined on all the samplers, made with beautiful shiny silk on thin white cotton. Two are a bit faded, but the others appear fresh from the needle. (see fig. 5)

Fig 3. Amsterdam darning sampler by I v d M 178- Silk on cotton. Size: 37 x 24 cm (Courtesy of Textiles Museum St Gallen, Switserland)

Fig 4. Amsterdam sampler by (N)eeltjen Toonen 1785. Silk on linen (?). Size:40 x 40 cm. (Coll. Ex Antiques)

The last sampler, the reason for this story, was made by Hermijntje Schouten in 1799 (see figs. 5 & 6). After the Amsterdam girl Sofia, born in 1711, Hermijntje, born in 1785 in the same city, was happily found with her parents. Hermijntje lived in the Jordaan neighbourhood and came from humble origins. Nevertheless, she still received education at fourteen. Her occupation is later recorded in the archives as a maid. The Jordaan people often worked for the residents on the canals. Hermijntje was certainly hired with her tremendous skills.

Fig 5 Detail of A'dam darning sampler by H. Schouten 1799. Silk on cotton, joined by bobbin lace Size: 38 x 25 cm

Fig 6 Amsterdam darning sampler by Hermijntje Schouten 1799. Silk on cotton. Size: 38 x 26 cm. (coll. Ex Antiques)

.There is indeed an Amsterdam style with an emphasis on the period of the last quarter of the 18th century. Whether this was under the auspices of one school is questionable, but it is likely. You do not see these composite darning samplers anywhere else in the Netherlands. Perhaps more samplers like these will surface someday. Then the group will become even more distinguished.

Amsterdam, February 2026.